Gaelic for helmsman, Stiùireadair deftly takes the Islay-whisky wheel. Pouring tawny-gold, its aromas of crème brûlée -char and briny sea air navigate to flavours of smoke, grilled apple and white pepper that sit silky and light on the palate. A sip is like a day at the seaside: have with smoked oysters or seared scallops.